I discover Victor Hugo's inspired life in Guernsey.with a visit to this tiny island in the English Channel. Known affectionately still as 'The Rock', it was a refuge for the great writer during Napoleon's reign.
I arrive from the sea. As the ferry eases down the Little Russell between Guernsey and Herm, the town of St Peter Port opens up to view. It has changed little since Victor Hugo landed here 150 years ago: despite some modern additions, pastel coloured buildings still jostle together in narrow cobbled streets. Boats fill the harbour; the fish market sells fish; Castle Cornet stands sentinel.
A short climb up a quiet street devoid of traffic leads to Hauteville House, Victor Hugo’s sanctuary for 15 years. A monument to his art, its walls and ceilings are covered with carpets; furniture of dark, intricately carved wood is integral with the building. One ceiling is lined with ceramics; another room with tiles. The darkroom is hidden in a cupboard. The winter garden is a conservatory with inspirational views of the islands. A glass eyrie at the top is where this literary giant wrote, standing at a writing desk.
Fiercely opposed to Napoleon, Victor Hugo sought refuge in Guernsey after he had to flee France. The island inspired him: its harsh, rugged cliffs combined with its gentle inland scenery, the hidden coves, a profusion of plant life growing abundantly in a mild climate. It was here that he wrote several of his most famous works: notably ‘Les Miserables’ and the work he devoted to the people of Guernsey, ‘The Toilers of the Sea’: “I dedicate this book to the rock of hospitality, to this corner of old Norman land where resides the noble little people of the sea, to the Island of Guernsey, severe and yet gentle…”.
Walking the streets, discovering the beaches mirrored in his paintings, surrounded by descendants of those he knew, it is easy to follow in the footsteps of this great man. He seems to be here still.
